DINING AROUND With Liz Jeressi August 03, 2006

Have you always dreamed of dining in Italy? Well, Piccola Italia is a restaurant right in Ocean Township that will take you away to a dinner in Italy without having to leave Monmouth County! Brian Gualtieri, the Chef and Owner, creates incredible innovative Italian dishes that will leave you wanting to try everything on the menu. He uses only the finest cuts of meat and freshest fish and makes each dish to order.

But let’s start at the beginning. Piccola Italia is in Cobblestone Village on West Park Avenue. It’s tucked away in a corner and not to be confused with the deli a few doors down. Newly expanded, you’ll walk inside to find a romantic, dimly lit and intimate group of rooms, each beautifully decorated with local paintings, white linen on the tables, candle light, and soft music. For a relaxed meal with your dining companions, or even a lighter dinner at the gorgeous full bar, this place is decorated beautifully. You’ll see people walking around checking on the tables dressed in tasteful suits and dresses. These are your servers. I enjoyed Cosmo and Amy’s company so much that I kept inviting them to sit down (although they graciously declined.) They were so knowledgeable about the menu and genuinely delight in serving their patrons. As for the menu itself, no laminates here. Instead, they’re a heavy leather.

I don’t think I ever realized what a nice presentation it makes to go to a restaurant where there’s not your average ‘uniform’ on the staff. There are many little touches that add to the ambience, including fresh, folded napkins between each course and a wonderful Italian bread, an assortment of olives, and delicious bruschetta brought to your table before you even order your wine or drink.

We began with a Cream of Porcini Mushroom Zuppa topped with truffle cheese. Not only did it look beautiful, but the aroma and the first spoonful set the tone for the evening. It was an opening act fit to be a main course in and of itself. Superb, creamy, and flavorful.

Next was the Panzanella Toscana Insalata: Baby Arugula, Marinated Tomatoes, Fresh Mozzarella, Shaved Red Onion, Pine Nuts, Basil, Julienned Proscuitto, Balsamic Glaze, and First Press Extra Virgin Olive Oil. This salad was light and delicious, with the pine nuts and fresh hard mozzarella adding a nice texture and crunch without being overpowering or too filling.

After the soup and salad came a wonderful Gnocchi di Erbe con Fiori di Zucca. The presentation alone took my breath away. The artwork of Chef Brian is enough to impress even the most jaded of diners. This hand made herb Gnocchi was served differently than the usual gnocchi covered in some kind of sauce. This light and tender gnocchi was served alongside stuffed Zucchini Flowers filled with Ricotta, laying atop Fresh Mozzarella, Tomato Coulis, and Zucchini Puree. The tomato had a light zing without being too spicy, and the zucchini was battered better than any Tempora I’ve had. The gnocchi was perfectly seasoned to stand alone.

With each dish better than the one to come before it, I couldn’t believe the chef could top himself with the next course, but he did. The Sea Scallops Crostati di Funghi Porcini was hands down the best scallop dish I have ever had the pleasure of tasting, transporting you straight to Northern Italy with each bite. The presentation and aroma alone were enough to guarantee a delightful Pesce dish. Served with mashed potatoes, sautéed mushrooms, ruffle butter, Mushroom Jus, and Baby Mache, these scallops were perfectly cooked and melted in my mouth.

Chef Brian’s other specialties that will leave your mouth watering include the Polpette di Granchio, pan seared jumbo lump crab cakes, served with roasted corn and tomato salad, baby Arugula and Red Pepper Aioli. These crab cakes are all fresh lump crabmeat, meaning they are not full of bread. If you are a fan of crab cakes, you’ll be applauding these.

Served on the bar menu, and a fantastic meal by itself, is the Tramezzini Rotondi con Guanciale. This is the Piccola Italia Burger made with Kobe beef on an herbed Focaccia Roll with Romaine Grilled Onion, Tomato, Black Pepper Aioli, and Truffle Cheese. The house made bacon is thin and sweet, and the dish is served with a truffle mayo sauce on the side and Rosemary-Parmesan Black Pepper Fries that are delectable. This burger is better than many steaks I’ve had before. Cooked to perfection, it rivals anything on the menu.

You simply must save room for a homemade dessert at Piccola Italia. My hands-down favorite was the double chocolate mousse (light and dark chocolate) drizzled with raspberry sauce. Call it a tower of joy or a party on a plate…it tastes like your first kiss – you’ll never forget it! I also sampled the Crème Brulee Del Giorno in vanilla, but there are various flavors which are all heavenly. It had a nice crisp top and was creamy and light as can be. The dessert special of the night was a fruit crisp with Asian pears and oatmeal strudel. Served warm with gelato, I couldn’t savor the flavor in my mouth long enough.

I’m sure you’ll enjoy your dinner at Piccola Italia as much as I did…in fact, I may see you there!