DINING AROUND With Liz Jeressi January 21, 2006

A TAVOLA RISTORANTE Rt. 9 South, Deep Run Shopping Center Old Bridge, NJ 732-607-1120 If you were to just drive past the Deep Run strip mall, you might not even notice the small restaurant called A Tavola, so going inside will surprise you. It’s like being transported to a ristorante in Tuscany. This place is more than just the usual Italian food. It’s much more of an all-around experience

Claudette, the owner and chef, welcomes her guests like family. She’s got a bright smile, big hello, and usually a hug and kiss for her guests, whom she treats like part of the family. As soon as you sit down you’ll feel like you’re surrounded by friends. In fact, you’ll sometimes see her wait staff taking pictures of the diners to add to the album of patrons, which gets passed around from time to time.

A Tavola means “at the table”, which was chosen as the name because we spend so much of our time and conduct so much of our affairs around the kitchen or dining room table. A Tavola (pronounced ah-TAHV-ala) is a small, cozy place, decorated to look like a little village, but with a fancy touch and white tablecloths. Bring your favorite wine to go with your meal.

Our waitress, Jamie, couldn’t have been nicer and more helpful. She started us off with Claudette’s homemade herb bread which was served with olive oil for dipping. After hearing about the specials, we were tempted to not even look at the menu because each appetizer and entrée on the list of specials was tempting. I chose the Portabella mushroom stuffed with crabmeat, spinach and diced tomatoes, drizzled with a roasted garlic cream sauce. This dish was so fantastic that I wished it had been offered as a main course. The flavors came together like a symphony in my mouth. I truly couldn’t get enough, and it set the mood for the evening.

My dining companion (hereby referred to as ‘Mom’!) had the Zuppa Di Clams in a light marinara sauce. The baby clams were delightful, and the marinara sauce was so light and delicious that we found ourselves dipping the bread in that, too. Otherwise we would’ve used our soup spoons to finish off every last drop!

As we relaxed with our fine Caesar salad (big enough for two), we couldn’t help but watch as each diner in the place was served their meal. Claudette’s presentation is spectacular. The dishes are beautiful, creative and downright artistic. I found myself turning to the diner next to me to ask about her dish, and she was so passionate about it that we struck up a conversation. She had the Broccoli Rabe and vowed that Claudette was the only chef who could match her own grandmother’s Italian cooking!

For our entrees, Mom chose from the specials the Roasted Rack of Lamb, sautéed with spinach and Yukon potatoes and drizzled with balsamic reduction. We’ve both had lamb before, but never served with such a fine sauce that upped the flavor of the meat above any lamb we’ve tried before. I chose Gamberi Con Funghi: shrimp, wild mushrooms and sun dried tomatoes in a white wine pink sauce. Since you have your choice of pastas for any pasta dishes, I chose to have my entrée tossed with penne. It was a spectacular entrée. The portions are large and I had to take some home, although I had trouble putting down my fork. Each bite was blissful.

Claudette cooks each entrée as it’s ordered, to assure the freshness you’d get with a home-cooked meal. But she’s also part of the ambience. She can be seen out on the floor from time to time checking on her customers and stopping for a moment to ask about their lives. She’s a genuine person that you’d want as a friend.

For dessert, along with our Cappuccinos (with flavor and foam to match any upscale coffee chain) we had Claudette’s homemade Tiramisu and Crème Brulee, although the cheesecake and canoli were just as tempting! If I hadn’t been so satisfied (okay, stuffed!) from dinner, I would’ve wished to have THREE Crème Brulee because it was a heavenly dessert. My mom would argue that the Tiramisu was even better!

We found ourselves lingering over coffee because we were having such a great time. The restaurant plays an eclectic mix of music, some of it upbeat Italian, and although the place isn’t as loud as a pub, it’s not hush-hush either. Again, it feels like you’re sitting around the table with your whole family talking and laughing and enjoying a great meal.

Reservations are accepted and recommended for Friday and Saturday nights.

We enjoyed this dining experience so much that my mom brought the rest of the family back for dinner the very next night! Claudette says 80% of her customers come back regularly to A Tavola, and I can see why. As Claudette puts it, when you go out to dinner, you just want it to be good! So come gather together again at the table, at A Tavola Ristorante.