DINING AROUND With Karen J. Irvine June 01, 2006

There’s a lot of buzz in the air about Bay Avenue Trattoria these days. Ever since Joe Romanowski and Maggie Lubcke, former owners of Joe and Maggie’s in Long Branch, opened the simple storefront in Highlands, people are raving about the casual BYOB restaurant.

These days there’s a lot of whistling going in the Trattoria’s kitchen, too. That’s Joe. Since selling the Long Branch restaurant and opening in Highlands, Joe’s been whistling a happy tune.

“This is what we wanted all along,” Joe said, his hands sweeping the expanse of the warm, ochre-colored dining room. “Large restaurants take their toll on you. After 15 years at Joe and Maggie’s, with seating for 90 downstairs and a private dining room for 60 on the second floor, we’re both tired. Now with Bay Avenue Trattoria, we’re having some fun. Here you can get everything from a meatball sandwich to filet mignon.”

When dining at the BYOB, which just celebrated its first anniversary, it’s easy to spot Joe. He’s the one in his trademark bandanna, chopping, grilling, sautéing and directing the kitchen staff in the light and airy kitchen. His happiness permeates the kitchen, the staff, his delicious Italian cuisine and the small staff that he calls his family.

The buzz about Bay Avenue has reached a deafening blitz of rave reviews and the tiny casual dining venue with seating for 50 is beginning to draw attention of savvy diners at the Jersey Shore.

Having dined at the rather elegant Joe and Maggie’s in Long Branch, the simple décor of Bay Avenue was both a surprise and delight. And then there is the food. On two separate visits, the meals were not only presented with panache and color, but boasted the flavors and texture Joe has built his reputation upon. This kind of quality made the cost of the meals - $75 for two appetizers, two entrees, a salad, an espresso and cappuccino – seem like a downright bargain.

Shore area diners considering a visit to Bay Avenue should also plan ahead. The BYOB is full most nights, so reservations are advised. (And remember to be courteous; if you cannot make your reservation or will be late, please call. They have only about 50 seats so they rely on them to be filled, and we all want Joe and Maggie to stay at Bay Avenue Trattoria for as long as they care to.)

At one dinner, my companion and I shared the Sausage Polenta as an appetizer at a lovely black table by the window framing the setting sun. The Sausage Polenta Pasticciata arrived hot and fitfully peppered with bits of tasty sausage and Portobello mushrooms in creamy polenta squares with melted gorgonzola cheese. A perfectly dressed salad made my taste buds dance like a teenager going to her prom. The refreshing special salad had shaved fennel, cucumber, radicchio and spinach.

At Bay Avenue Trattoria, patrons have the pleasure of benefiting from Joe’s extensive experience. He knows that too much dressing will smother the sensational, yet, delicate greens. With my first bite I knew immediately that Joe was enjoying his new unfussy digs. He was breathing new life into his ingredients. He was cooking not to survive, but to express his pride, culture and joy in cooking.

Joe is my new hero: he proves that getting older means that you’re only getting better.

I chose the Pollo del Giorno both times and it did not disappoint. It takes a great chef to turn a peasant-type fare like chicken into a brilliant dish. Anyone can shine with truffles or caviar. (Those rare ingredients also scream dollar signs!) But Joe does not scrimp, either. He purchases free-range chickens that are tender and flavorful. The chicken breast is Frenched and semi boneless, cooked with rosemary and roasted garlic. It was served over perfectly cooked cavatelli. My friend had the Potato Encrusted Halibut dusted with Panko breadcrumbs and served over smashed Yukon Gold potatoes. The halibut was flavorful and cooked to perfection.

Desserts are worth saving room for too, and on one night Stephanie, our server and a member of Joe and Maggie’s original family, proudly told us our dessert choice was her creation.

“I’ve known Joe for seven years and I can tell you how every dish is made,” she told us. For me, a person who dines out not because I always want to, but because my business demands it, her confident statement was like music to my ears. A server who loves cooking and food is a server who also wants to understand her guests. In short, she aims to please. That night she served us Lemoncello Pound cake with fresh strawberries. Kapowie! It was the knockout blow to a night of serious culinary deliveries. I will definitely be back for more.

And one more thing: There’s a synergy at Bay Avenue Trattoria that hums rhythmically and heartily like a finely tuned classic Chevy. Joe is not superhuman. He relies on intellect, experience, maturity and confidence, which results in a feeling of “ah, that’s good” sensory feeling. It’s not fancy, just darn good.

Ingredients are handled with wisdom and care. You will never find over-dressed salads or dishes swimming in sauces. Joe and Maggie don’t care about stars anymore. They are stars, and their restaurant shines with their new devil-may-care attitude and adventurous spirit.